Crickhowell

On Friday, we embarked on a pilgrimage to Crickhowell, a gem tucked away in the Brecon Beacons. Our first encounter with this delightful town was during a 2015 canal boat holiday along the serene Brecon & Monmouth Canal. Crickhowell has a unique character – it feels like a quaint piece of England transported into the Welsh countryside, with a notable distinction: it holds the record for the lowest percentage of Welsh speakers in Wales. It’s a haven of sorts for English retirees, who lend it an atmosphere of quiet contentment.

For Hay, the highlight is an outdoor clothing shop that specialises in proper, no-nonsense gear – the kind that stands up to the unpredictable weather of the Brecons. Unlike the fashion-driven options you find online, this shop delivers function over flair. For me, the draw lies just a few doors away, at a garage with an ever-changing display of motorcycles. Whether vintage classics or modern marvels, there’s always something in the window to stir the imagination.

The Bull Inn is another staple of our visits, especially at Christmas. Its festive decor is legendary, transforming the pub into a glowing wonderland that wouldn’t be out of place on the cover of a Dickensian novel. The warmth inside, with its roaring fires and local ales, makes it hard to leave.

Of course, Crickhowell’s crown jewel is the bridge over the River Usk. With origins dating back to the 1530s, it has witnessed centuries of history, evolving with each rebuild until it reached its present form in 1706. The bridge’s low arches frame the river in a way that feels timeless, reflecting the surrounding hills and, on a still day, the sky itself.

History seeps from from every corner of the town. The remains of the Norman motte-and-bailey castle are a poignant reminder of a bygone era. Once a formidable stronghold, it was later rebuilt in stone during medieval times but has since surrendered to the elements, leaving behind atmospheric ruins that invite exploration.

For those with a curious eye, Crickhowell rewards with unexpected treasures. Independent shops and galleries line the narrow streets, offering everything from handcrafted gifts to artisan foods. The town’s café culture is thriving, with snug spots serving up homemade cakes and coffee. Its charm lies in its contrasts – a place steeped in history, yet vibrantly alive through a community drive to encourage independent shops.