I was watching one of those Sunday afternoon television programmes the other day. You know the sort. Somebody wanders slowly around a foreign city while soft jazz plays underneath and a presenter in expensive linen says things like:
“Marrakech assaults the senses.” Which is television shorthand for: “There are lamps.”
It was on PBS, which, as a pensioner, I am increasingly drawn towards, along with Sky Arts. Between them they appear to contain the only two vaguely worthwhile things left on Freesat that do not involve either house auctions, serial killers or a celebrity learning pottery while crying.
Normally these programmes are little more than visual chewing gum for the overfed and mildly sleepy. Half travel documentary, half DFS advert. But this one drifted into the world of designers who became obsessed with Marrakech, and suddenly it all became rather interesting.
Because Marrakech appears to have a very particular effect on wealthy Europeans. They arrive as sensible minimalists and leave wanting seventeen courtyards, three fountains, carved cedar doors and somebody quietly hammering brass in the background at all times.
At first it is innocent enough. A tile pattern. A courtyard. Some lanterns.
A few days later they are discussing “texture” with alarming seriousness and wondering whether the downstairs loo in Swindon might benefit from artisanal plasterwork.
Six months on, they are trying to persuade a man called Tariq to hand-finish seventeen thousand zellige tiles while a Labrador named Basil lies exhausted beside an olive tree in Surrey wondering where everything went wrong.
What fascinates western designers about Marrakech is not really Morocco itself. It is the discovery that decoration can be unapologetic. Britain, especially modern Britain, became terrified of visual confidence somewhere around 1997. Since then our interiors have largely consisted of fifty shades of greige interrupted occasionally by Farrow & Ball knock-offs and a sign saying LIVE LAUGH LOVE.
Then people arrive in Marrakech and discover rooms where somebody has clearly said: “No, keep going. More pattern. More colour. More carved wood. Hang another lantern there. Put a fountain in the middle. Yes, under the banana tree.”
And somehow it works.
The extraordinary thing is that Moroccan design manages to feel both disciplined and sensual at the same time. Beneath all the colour and ornament there is structure, geometry and craftsmanship. Repetition. Precision. Balance. Nothing is accidental. It is rather like looking at a beautifully engineered classic car underneath all the polished walnut and leather.
Designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Jean Paul Gaultier did not merely visit Marrakech. They inhaled it. Suddenly fashion collections became drenched in jewel colours, embroidery, strong lines and theatrical silhouettes. European minimalism briefly got shoved aside by people returning from Morocco muttering: “We need more texture.” Which, translated into English, usually means: “I would like the sitting room to resemble an extremely expensive spice market.”
Even Pierre Balmain succumbed. His Marrakech pool, tiled in the style of a Persian carpet, looked less like somewhere to swim and more like somewhere an exceptionally wealthy sultan might quietly discuss silk exports while being handed a fig on a silver tray. It was gloriously over the top and, annoyingly, utterly elegant at the same time. That is the Marrakech trick. It marches right up to the brink of absurdity, peers over the edge, then somehow lands gracefully on its feet.
The amusing part is that Britain cannot quite carry this off because our climate fundamentally disagrees with the concept. Moroccan interiors are designed around blazing sun, cool courtyards and shadow. British houses are designed around horizontal rain and asking whether the radiator is on.
A real Marrakech house belongs in Marrakech. It belongs behind heavy walls keeping out heat and dust, with shadow falling across a courtyard while water quietly trickles somewhere unseen. Transporting the entire thing to a new-build in Swindon feels faintly like wearing a dinner jacket to clean the wheelie bins. Unless, of course, you are actually Berber, in which case you can probably do what you like.
So what happens instead is that people attempt a sort of Marrakech-inspired compromise. One brass lantern, two cushions and a vaguely distressed side table from Homesense, then they stand back believing they now live in a riad. Meanwhile outside it is 7C and Dave from next door is pressure-washing algae off his wheelie bins.
Still, I rather admire the ambition. Modern Britain desperately needs reminding that decoration is not a moral failing. Somewhere along the line we confused minimalism with sophistication.
Marrakech never made that mistake.
Marrakech looks at your beige open-plan kitchen, quietly orders another mosaic fountain, then watches while somebody in Wiltshire tries to recreate the effect with a £14 brass lantern from Dunelm and a reed diffuser called Arabian Nights.












