The Great British Barbecue: Smoke, Sausages and Lowered Expectations

I have never really understood the British obsession with the sausage-and-burger barbecue. You wait for decent weather. You drag the barbecue out. You buy charcoal or gas. You stand outside prodding things with tongs while smoke drifts into everyone’s eyes. And after all that effort, what do you cook?

A sausage.

Or a burger.

Sometimes, if ambition has really taken hold, a bit of bacon.

Why?

These are things that are perfectly easy to cook indoors, where there is an actual cooker, a frying pan and some vague prospect of temperature control. Bacon in particular seems almost designed to demonstrate the limitations of barbecue cooking. It either sits there pale and greasy or suddenly erupts into flame and turns into something resembling a roofing tile.

A barbecue ought to justify itself.

Chicken thighs marinated properly and cooked until the edges catch. Lamb chops. Pork belly. Prawns. Fish. Kebabs. Vegetables that actually improve when they are blistered and charred. A decent steak. Things where the direct heat, smoke and slight unpredictability are part of the point.

But no. In Britain we have somehow decided that outdoor cooking means taking the contents of a mediocre transport café breakfast and moving them 20 feet into the garden.

My father-in-law is firmly of this school. Burgers, sausages and, on special occasions, bacon. I try to avoid his barbecues where possible, but unfortunately I married his daughter, which has created certain diplomatic obligations.

So periodically I attend.

I stand there with a drink, make agreeable noises and watch another sausage being incinerated over a patch of flaming fat, while reminding myself that marriage is built on compromise.

Some compromises are larger than others.