Saturday 24 June 2023

Flipping Conductive Resin

I flipped the car trailer I bought (but never used) and made a small profit. That has given me a stash to use on tools for the GT6. I immediately went and bought a smaller angle grinder than the one I have, and some twisted wire brushes to remove rust and paint. I also need a decent MIG welding kit.

Ditched the fibreglass bonnet that came with the Triumph GT6 and placed the original steel bonnet on the car. The outriggers that were taken off in order to fit the fibreglass bonnet will have to be welded back on again - they're meant to be present somewhere in the boxes of bits and the steel bonnet fixes to them.

It's not as if I'm going to be racing the GT6 and want it ultra-light - I just want originality. The fibreglass job is now on Facebook Market for £250 and I had a tickle on it last night. Bloke is coming round today to hunt through the boxes of bits for the accoutrements that belong to it. Even if he doesn't buy it, we can have a good chin wag and exchange of information, which is what it's all about anyway - camaraderie.


I must get rid of that damned dog cage to the left of the GT6 so I can lay out the boxes of bits and see what needs refurbishing. I've also got a tonne of stuff inside the car that needs coming out.

Might consider converting it to steam.....

Had an initial go at making an electrically conductive plastic with which to fill the channels I routered into the underside of the ash table top for the LED wires, but I obviously hadn't used enough graphite in the mix, as it was as conductive as a sock. I had another go, using equal weights of resin and graphite, which came out with the consistency of peanut butter and is refusing to cure. However, even in uncured form it's showing great promise when I put my AVO meter across it. It's a balance between getting sufficient graphite to provide some end-to-end connectivity and not too much such that it becomes blobby. I might be better just pouring graphite into the channel and overlaying it with resin to seal it in.

The pure resin filling the knotholes on the top surface is now standing proud of the wood surface and needs sanding down, but I'll leave the resin to set really hard first before bringing it into contact with an abrasive. 

 

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